The Food, History, and Places

Traveling is not just about discovering new locations; it also means experiencing different lifestyles and tasting unique cuisines.

The history and geography of each country are vividly expressed through its typical dishes, as the local ingredients available are used to prepare the everyday meals of its inhabitants. We are not talking about gourmet cuisine here, but rather about dishes that are integral to the culture of the place itself.

A great way to begin immersing yourself in a new destination is by taking a food and wine tour. Rome, for instance, is a city where delectable food and fine wine can easily be paired with visits to amazing sights. The cuisine and history of Rome are closely intertwined; the first treatise on cuisine that has survived through the ages is the De Coquinaria, written by Marcus Gaius Apicius, a chef and gastronome in the time of Emperor Tiberius. 

In ancient Rome, it was a common custom to eat and dine with friends in the *tabernae*, a practice that continues today. Numerous simple and unpretentious taverns and trattorias can be found throughout the city. However, if you want to truly experience traditional Roman dishes, be prepared for flavors that may differ from your expectations and consider venturing away from the historical center. It’s also good advice to choose eateries where Italian is the predominant language!

The typical ingredients of ancient Roman cuisine largely came from the nearby countryside. It’s important to remember that the Romans were originally a people of shepherds, so sheep and pigs were commonly raised. The Roman aristocracy had a taste for quality food, even establishing fish farms to breed fish and moray eels for the wealthy class. Thus, ingredients such as artichokes, arugula, chicory, lamb, chicken, bacon, and cheese became staples of Roman cuisine. 

Dishes like Carbonara, Cacio e Pepe, and Amatriciana are made from these ingredients. Traditional Roman cuisine was further enriched when the Jewish community—long present in the city—expanded after the expulsion of Jews from Spain. In 1555, the Pope ordered the establishment of a Jewish neighborhood, which is now famous for its Jewish-Roman cuisine, particularly near the Portico di Ottavia, opposite Capitoline Hill. The blending of these two culinary traditions gave rise to one of the most well-known dishes in Roman cuisine: Carciofo alla Giudia (Jewish-style artichoke), a humble yet flavorful dish. 

Historically, the Carciofo alla Giudia was traditionally prepared by Jewish families during Yom Kippur, and no tourist can leave Rome without trying it at least once. In 1891, the inauguration of the Testaccio slaughterhouse further influenced culinary tradition, as some workers were paid with less valuable parts of the animals known as Quinto Quarto. These scraps were then sold to taverns, where innkeepers creatively transformed them into delectable dishes As a result,  we have dishes like oxtail (coda alla vaccinara), pajata, and coratella which  became cherished elements of Roman cuisine. Each one should be sampled at least once to appreciate its unique flavor.

It is also noteworthy that until 1871, Rome was not the capital of Italy but was characterized by the Papal State, which influenced its culinary practices. After becoming the capital, Rome evolved into a European hub, marked by the establishment of cafés and theaters, later in the post-World War II era the habit of enjoying breakfast at bars has exploded in popularity, with espresso and croissants becoming standard, alongside a local specialty called Maritozzo.

Originally, Maritozzo was a simple sweet roll that young men would bring to their girlfriends during courtship as a gesture of affection. Initially, it did not contain cream; however, when some attentive suitor decided to add cream, it became more delicious. The dessert’s name is derived from the Italian word for husband (*marito*), reflecting this romantic custom.

With modernity, street food has gained tremendous popularity in Rome, with the most famous items being supplì, sliced pizza, and the newest arrival, trapizzino. However, we’ll delve into those, as well as the sweet treats, in another post!

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